East, further East

We pulled up stumps at Streaky Bay, and resumed our journey East.  The packup was nothing to be proud of though.  Either the timezone was still throwing us around, or we were getting SERIOUSLY lazy.  Admittedly we did have a lot to pack up, awnings, walls, bikes etc, but it was a little surprising when we got on the road around 10am.  We could think about it being 7.30 WA time, but that might be stretching it a little?  Just to top it off, we did make sure we stopped in town on our way through to pick up a coffee.  If you’re late, you might as well be really late!  Our synchronised packup with the Toomey’s would have been blown out of the water on this morning, just as well they are 2000+ kms away!
 

On the road again - happy travellers

We were aiming generally for Port Augusta, (have heard others lovingly refer to it as Port-a-Gutta), and made reasonable time to there.  The girls really do travel well, although on any given day, in the heat of some whingy moment, we may not say the same thing.  On this occasion, we only stopped once for lunch and travelled through otherwise.  Well done girls!!

A big bird near our lunch spot

 When we got to ‘Portagutta’, it was still early enough (decided to live in SA time finally), although pulling up would be been nice enough.  Our option though was a caravan park, which we knew was on the highway, and a bit noisy, not to mention expensive.  Glenn did a quick bit of research, and found a place on the way to Flinders Ranges (our next major stop).  There was not too much info, but it ‘sounded’ nice, Warren Gorge, just outside of Quorn.  How bad could it be??

It was a 60km addition to the day and superstar driver Amy was coping, so on we went.  From Portagutta, you start heading up into the fabulous and extensive ranges right thoughout this region.  At times you see the ranges from a distance, other times you are completely surrounded by them 360 degrees.  Gives you something good to look at.

We took the turnoff towards Warren Gorge and by the signs of the hills and ranges in this area, it looked like it would be a winner.  When we eventually drove into the campground, our suspicions were confirmed, it was beautiful. 

Our home in Warren Gorge

 

There was a huge gorge wall running halfway around the campground and its rocky features were a rich red colour, promising to becoming even more vibrant during the sunset.  The area was also huge, it just kept going, with little camp spots spread throughout.  Hmmmm, this quiet little hide-away, or a busy, expensive, noisy caravan park in Portagutta?  Think we’d lucked it this time.

We were only going to spend one night here, but sitting there, in the quiet, no other campers directly next to us, and only $7 a night, why would we move on?  Exactly!! We wouldn’t.

The next morning we slowly woke up and enjoyed the pitter patter of a little rain.  It was slightly surprising given we’d been looking at the weather forecast the day before, expecting 34 today, but hey, let’s roll with it.  It soon did stop and the day turned out to be a cracker.

After breaky, we got some inspiration and Savannah helped Glenn make up some scones in the camp oven.  Hadn’t done that yet on this trip and after Matt Toomey’s scones all the way back in Keep River, we’d been meaning to give it a go.

The camp oven went onto the gas cooker (not ideal, but was too hot and dry for fires), and away we went.  They took a little longer than being done on a fireplace, but they turned out deeeeeeeelicious.  Very light and fluffy.  We were sitting under a tree, mid morning, with cuppa’s, scones and jam, when another camper rolled past in their car.  We laughed at what sort of a sight that must have been.  “Barry, did you see that????  Were they eating........    Nooooo, couldn’t have, they are CAMPING!”  Can’t beat camping food we say.

Too swept up in the moment to photograph the scones, but here is the damper

Just to be greedy, Glenn also whipped up a damper, I mean, the camp oven was hot after all.  Again, took a while, sort of like a slow cooked damper, but absolutely perfect in the end.  We couldn’t eat it at the time, so left it for a taste at dinner and the rest for breakfast.  We are definitely partial to a little bit of toasted damper the next morning..... YUM.

In the end, scones were our lunch.  We were too full after those little pockets of joy.  We lazed around camp, enjoying the sun and the gentle warm breeze.  It was quite sickenly perfect, but we did suck it in, and note just how lovely it was to be there.  The warm weather was not taken for granted at all!  Glenn even managed to find time to just sit, close his eyes, and rest under the shade of a big tree.  Unheard of, but......   enjoyable.

The gorge wall did not disappoint that afternoon.  Amy was scooting around taking some nice photo’s, and also took the girls for a short walk along the gorge wall after dinner.  This surprising little pocket had really delivered for us, and we loved our stay, thanks Warren Gorge.  Next time, we might actually do the walk INTO the gorge......  it’s good to leave something on the table for next time!

A morning jam session - table legs make great clapping sticks

Chilling out in the camper

Shopkeeper Jess

A view of the scenery next to our camp spot

 

Streaky Bay

We decided we needed a beachside lay-over, so headed back to a little spot on the coast called Streaky Bay, not too far down from Ceduna.  This is a pretty idyllic little fishing hamlet with a big wide bay to look out onto.  We had passed through on our previous trip, and stayed down on a beach 20kms south of here (named by us as ‘Bee Sting Bay’ for obvious reasons), but this time it was a caravan park on beachfront. 

Our home at Streaky Bay

 

We spent a couple of days here, doing the normal hanging out, playgrounds, a quick swim in the water and even went down to a little cafe for lunch, overlooking the bay and pier.  Life’s pretty grand really.  We did the luxurious step of going back there the next day for afternoon tea, scones and coffee.  Niiice.

High tea on the deck

The girls did a lot of riding on their bikes here, especially through the puddles that formed on the road outside our camp.  By this stage, Jess was totally comfortable on her balance bike, able to be a part of the ‘posse’, which at this park, was just her and her sister.

The play box and the toy cars also got a fair workout here.  The convoy games, 4WD and recovery action was still the main play.  Even some backing of trailers.  Very happy with what we’ve embedded in the girls!  Wonder where that will take them?

Glenn did force himself to rotate the tyres one last time.  It was a close call between the tyres and having a nap.  It’s amazing what guilt will make you do.  Worth doing though.  We’ve got to keep Slim happy and healthy.  Side note, the expertly stuffed piece of foam was doing its job perfectly, with no more brake light fuses blowing.  Masterful effort that!

Rotating the tyres - it's not all beer and skittles

A quick smile for the camera

The wind kept up for our stay here and then it got COLD.  We figured we were being groomed for heading back to Melbourne.  We noticed that they had experienced widely varying temperatures, from 34 one day to 17 the next.  I mean seriously, who’d live there???  The cold here in Streaky Bay definitely got into our bones.  We even had to set up the awning and walls to get away from it.  We survived though and made sure we appreciated all the warm weather to come on the rest of the trip. 

We of the Nullarbor - tough dogs!

From Perth, we took most of the day driving east towards Kalgoorlie.  This was the road we’d come in on, and in honesty, found it a little on the dull side.  This time we found alternative entertainment.  The kids had their iPod going strong, (“Toot, Toot, Chugga Chugga ... etc” ), and even managed to have a very small sleep.  We cracked into some serious Podcast listening.  Interviews and chats were flying all over the place.  Some particularly interesting discussions with Colin Hay (ex Men At Work), and Iva Davies (Icehouse).  Tell you, the things you learn.....

We drove through to Coolgardie, a town 40kms out of Kalgoorlie, and location of a ‘short cut’ across to the start of the Nullarbor.  We decided to save ourselves about 70kms the next day, and stay here rather than Kalgoorlie.  We turned into the only caravan park in town.... Hmmmmmmmmmm

The gruff old dude asked for our $30 (man, are you serious??? Including $3 for each of the kids... sheesh).  It all felt a bit dodge, but was a home for the night and Amy was impressed by the clean bathrooms.  That was enough to lock us in.  The park was absolutely chockers full of workers. We think they were doing a railway upgrade nearby, although no doubt some could have been miners.  We got a little corner, setup, and got a quick dinner on.  Let’s go to bed, we’re stuffed!!!

Staying in a park full of ‘workers’ is always interesting.  The early ‘scouts’ start dribbling out at about 5.00am.  The keen and eager guys, usually including trucks, roar out at about 5.30, and then the ho-hummers meander off by 6am.  The park goes quiet from then, until our kids get up.

Back on the road, we took the ‘shortcut’ and drove down to Norseman, the start of the Nullarbor.  Turning onto the Eyre Highway, it’s weird seeing those cars and trucks passing you straight away.  You basically know that they have all come across the Nullarbor, (not too many places as a destination in between).  You’re just starting this verrrry long trek of 1200kms, and they are rolling off the end.

The word Nullarbor comes from Latin, nullus = ‘no’ and arbor = ‘tree’.  Funnily enough, it is anything but treeless.  Certainly semi-arid, but predominately covered in shrubs, trees and grasses.  It is also apparently the world’s largest single piece of limestone.  Huh, how about that??? J

The first European to cross the Nullarbor was Edward John Eyre, who amusingly described the plain as “a hideous anomaly, a blot on the face of Nature, the sort of place one gets into in bad dreams”.  I guess when you’re walking across it, not knowing what was beyond the horizon, it would definitely feel like that. 

For us, in our comfy, air-conditioned 4WD, music at hand, plenty of fuel, water and food, a GPS to tell us how far we have to go, and a comfortable bed following us all the way along, it was interesting and enjoyable.  Makes you feel pretty soft though!! J

We cranked along, checking out the scenery, and enjoying the desert surrounds.  There was not too much traffic, and the big road trains didn’t cause us any grief.  We made for Baladonia, where we stopped for a much enjoyed coffee for us, and icypole for the kids.  Doing it hard here!

Slim 'dusty' cruising Baladonia Road

 

We decided to pull up stumps, it being early afternoon.  We had travelled on a road south of here before, and loved it, so decided to hunt for a campsite down there.  After a little searching, we found a sensational little camp in the bush, no-one around of course.  Being in bush like this, as the sun starts to drop, the shadows get long, and the vibrant desert colours are highlighted, this is pretty much our ideal scenario.  You don’t get sick of it ever!!!  We had an early dinner, and took the girls for a ride up the track.  Needless to say, they had a ball.

Our home for the night just off Baladonia Road

A ride after dinner

Playdo...always a favourite

 

The following day, we were back on the road again, heading east (right).  Just out of Baladonia started Australia’s longest stretch of straight road in the world, 146kms of it (90 miles).  This is where cruise control comes into its own!  Apparently the Nullarbor also contains the longest stretch of straight railway track in the world, something like 478kms.

We pulled up mid afternoon again, although by this stage the timezones were giving us a bit of curry.  We either pulled up at 2.30 (WA time), 4.00 (normal SA time), 5.00 (daylight savings SA time), or 5.30 (Vic time).  What timezone do we work in???   ARGH.  Well, simple answer actually, whatever our body feels like, we go with the sun, after all, we are on holidays, with no real time commitments!!

We found a little side track to drive down and made our camp in a small little clearing of land.  It doesn’t take much to make a place your home, and this small patch of ground did us fine.  We were treated to a beautiful sunset and afterglow.  The wind did test us a little here too.  Cooking was a challenge, where you turn on the gas full bore, and then sit back and let the heat get whipped away.  Amazing how long it can take to boil water this way.  We worked around it though.

A picturesque camp, seemingly in the middle of nowhere

A little moondance

 

The next day was similar.  Watching the road go on forever, you definitely know it’s a long road by this stage.

We passed through Eucla, the border town between WA & SA, and then dropped into a couple of the lookouts along the Great Australian Bight.  We particularly enjoyed checking out the view of this rugged coastline, with towering cliffs, and the huge Southern Ocean swells rolling in and crashing on the rocks.  It all seems so untouched and quite spectacular.  We did have to do our viewing whilst trying to stay on our feet, with the gale force winds trying to push us over.  See.. hardships!

Hang on tight!

 

That night was a roadside stop near Yalanta.  We were pulling up reasonably early to make sure that the girls were not too strung out from all day in the car, and we all got a chance to run around, (or for us, sit around and have a beer/wine).  Making dinner comes up all too quickly though!

Each afternoon the girls kept busy, often playing with the cars in the red sand.  The convoy and recovery action was still a favourite, as well as visiting each others ‘houses’. 

The final run was an easy morning into Ceduna, the eastern end of the Nullarbor.  We had to find a spot to pull over for lunch before we got into town.  Ceduna is where they have their fruit and vegie quarantine station, and you have to hand it all over.  We hooked into the last of the tomatoes and lettuce, but we couldn’t polish off the potatoes and onions, so they got donated.

Another successful crossing of the Nullarbor.  Definitely not boring, but long, and on this occasion, very windy.  Phew, we endured all that was thrown at us.  Tough, so tough!

Right... now, let’s head Right

We spent a couple of more days just hanging out, and the kids were loving playing with our neighbour friends, Katie, Cowan and their 3 kids.  We had a mini velodrome going around the park, with multiple kids doing laps with bikes, scooters, running. It was all action.  This is where Savannah asked to borrow Jack’s push bike (Katie’s sons), which had pedals.  Up to now, she had been riding her balance bike, which is a kids bike without pedals.  She uses her legs to scoot along and this teaches her how to balance. 

After a quick try out on Jack’s bike, she was away pedalling by herself, without training wheels.  This was her first ride using pedals on a bike without training wheels.  The balance bike approach really worked a treat!!  Well done Savannah!!!  By this stage, Jess’s legs had also grown long enough and she was off and riding her balance bike like a pro!  Phhewww.  At least that validated us hauling her balance bike half way around the country!

We also packed up the camper and sent it back to the Camprite boys for a second visit.  There were a couple more things that we wanted looking at, and as per before, they were fantastic.  On the spot they did some work for us, with exceptional customer service.  Very happy.

We finally felt recharged enough and ready to head right.  Right being East.  We’ve had many discussions about our north, south, east & wests, as well as our fronts and backs of the camper.  Long story, needless to say, it’s been put down to ‘boy logic’ and ‘girl logic’.  Not sure who’s right, we just have to figure out where to go... this time, RIGHT.

We said our final goodbyes to Katie, Cowan and kids.  It has been lots of fun guys, thanks.  Perth is definitely a place we could live in.  It was inspirational to hear what Katie and Cowan were up to, and we could project ourselves into the same situation.  Don’t think it’s likely to happen, but fun thinking about it. 

We headed out of Perth, and started the long, long drive across the Nullarbor!

A walk along the beach at Hillary's in Perth

 

Names

Early on in the piece, during our trip through western NSW, the girls had started playing ‘what’s your name’ with each other.  They rolled played, which included changing their names all the time. 

Savannah would, amazingly, come up with these convoluted, difficult, and very very long names.  They were so complicated that we couldn’t repeat them, but somehow she’s be able to.  Amazing. 

She did simplify it every now and then, coming up with regulars such as Zara, Sarah, Maurice amongst others.  On one occasion she was Maurice (we think, can’t quite remember).  Anyway, she was playing up in the back, so Glenn turned around and said “Savannah, cut it out”.  “I’m not Savannah, I’m Maurice”.  Quick as a shot, Glenn turned around and sternly said “Maurice, cut it out!!!”.  Amy and I both started cracking up in the front, trying not to let the girls see our stupid grins and giggles.

During these role plays, Jess reliably would be Alex.  We don’t know where Alex came from, but it was pretty consistent.  Jess was also a lot more adamant, when she was Alex, it WAS Alex, not Jess.  This would go on for ages, “I not Jessica, I Alex!!!”  This wasn’t just once either, it was for days.  Needless to say, she still randomly gets called Alex every now and then.

Fremantle - What a Cracker!!

On the Wednesday, we planned to go and visit Fremantle.  We loved it last time we were there, so it would be good to have another look.  The day ended up being one absolutely out of the box.  It was fairly atypical for our trip, but how amazing!

We started the morning with a sleep in and then a coffee sitting in our living room.  Rather than the typical cereal, we cooked up a humungous bacon and egg breakfast, complete with tomatoes, mushrooms and even some toasted damper, left over from cooking the day before.  What a feast!

From there, with tummies bursting, we drove the 30 mins down to Freemantle.  The sun was shining again and the water looked brilliant blue as we cruised along the esplanade.  We parked and went for a walk up to Market Street.  Glenn was keen to check out a didgeridoo shop he’d heard about, which was one of the most impressive we’d seen.  He tried a bunch of didg’s, as well as giving the girls a turn.  They were being entertained however by a couple of guys jamming in the corner. VERY impressive playing!  Glenn resisted all temptations and we left without a purchase.  Could have done some damage in there though!

We were keen to find an Italian Cafe we’d been in last time, which we eventually hunted down thank goodness.  Gino’s is a well known spot in Fremantle and coffee there is not just a beverage, it’s an experience.  A couple of coffees and muffins topped us up again, whilst sitting there soaking in the hip and happ’n Fremantle vibe.  We were in the place to be! J

Outside Gino's in Fremantle

One of THE best coffees

We walked back down towards the water and let the girls loose on the huge playground there.  Great place to work off your ‘wigglely woos’.  We also spotted the ferris wheel.  This was something we’d never done and wouldn’t again in a hurry.  We were on holidays after all.  The girls had a great time, checking out all the things they could look down on and watching the other carriages follow them.  It was interesting for us to note how Savannah had come a long way.  She would have in the past been riddled with fear doing something new and different like this.  All good now.

First time ferris wheel

After another play in the playground, it was time for the adults... well, sort of.  We walked across to Little Creatures Brewery, a micro-brewery on the waters edge.  This is an amazing place, just perfect for sitting out in the sunshine sucking beers down.  We had been given the word on the sandpit out the back for the girls, which was heaven.  Mum and Dad sat around soaking up the sun, vibe and beers, whilst the girls entertained themselves in the pit.  A big bowl of hot chips were mandatory to complete the picture.  Honestly, does it get any better?

Mum & Dad drink beer while the children quietly play - bliss

Not sure why this photo is here - but it was taken at Little Creatures Brewery

On the way back to the camper, Glenn did pay the price for all his fun.  He was BUSTING.... the kind of busting where you can’t talk, you can’t think..... you are so busy jiggling.  The emergency stopping lane on the freeway was looking like a great option for a while there.  Gotta hate that!

The day was topped off by a lovely, easy home cooked meal of spaghetti meatballs and a red wine.  What a cracker!!!!

Perth Recharge

One of the main reasons for heading to Perth, given we were passing through Kalgoorlie, and a day’s drive from here, was to check in with the Camprite boys in the factory where these little beauties are made.  We had a few tweaks we wanted done to the camper, as well as some questions and checks.  We had arranged to go and see them on Friday, so Thursdays was ours!

Our new ‘city’ surroundings were highlighted pretty early when we were laying in bed on the first morning.  Savannah asked “What’s that noise”.  “What noise?”  “That.... ‘errrrrrrrrrrrrrr’”.  Laughing at how poignant her question was, we had to tell her that it was traffic noise.  Goes to show how much time we’d spent in the bush, and how quiet life can be.  Glenn hates that noise too, so well spotted Savannah!                   

Glenn had somehow picked up a small cold, (probably those snotty Melbourne family members J), and was in recovery mode.  We were all generally pretty ‘travel weary’ after a long hall down to Perth.  It had been a good run, just lots of travelling.  It was good to ‘put out the anchor’ as Glenn’s dad would say.

We filled in the day pretty easily.  We had chosen another caravan park with our preferable entertainment devices, a pool, playground and a jumping pillow.  Our friend Gabby laughed at us, asking if we were ‘resort’ hopping.  We figure, if the kids are entertained, life is happy!!

On the Friday we packed up the camper and headed to Camprite.  Was great to see their factory, and chat to the guys.  Extremely professional and superior customer service.  Very very impressed.  We got our adjustments made and asked the 100 questions we had built up.  We also saw the new Camprite models they had just released....  ohhhhhhhh.. .arrrrr, but no, no trade-ins.

 

While we were waiting for the boys to do some work on the camper, we went and entertained ourselves at the markets around the corner.  Other than wandering around looking at not much, we spotted some kids with their faces painted.  We tracked down the lady doing the painting, just in time as she was about to pack up.  Amy asked the girls, “Do you want your faces painted?”  Without hesitating, (and probably not really knowing what it meant) Jess was straight in there with a “YES”.  Savannah, no, not so much.

Jess jumped up, and for her first face paint, went very well, allowing the lady to paint a butterfly on her face.  When she’d finished, we showed her herself via the iPhone, it was hilarious, she just sat there staring..... liking it, but found it weird!!!  Savannah did relax into it, and got a few flowers painted on her arm, which she absolutely loved.  They both had a ball.

First time butterfly

First time arm painting

When we had picked up the camper and returned back to camp, we did something unprecedented on this trip, we set up the awning AND the walls.  Whooooooooooooh, we have ourselves a little room, perhaps you could even call it a living room!!! (Funny the things you get excited about). 

We made friends with one of our caravan park neighbours, who were in the process of moving to Perth from Adelaide.  They were staying at the CP for the week, while waiting for their new house to become available.  So we all decided to go out for dinner on the Saturday night, with their 3 kids and ours. We went to the City Beach and checked out Clancy’s Fish Bar – very trendy, great food and atmosphere. And of course, great company.

The next few days were spent in go slow mode.  Small sleep ins (as much as the kids would allow), lots of playground and jumping pillow action, a little pool dipping, and sitting around having cuppa’s and kids riding their bikes and enjoying their new friends.

On the Sunday, we ventured out to Kings Park, a huge park very close to the city.  The views of the city and the water were as good as had been expected, all highlighted in the beautiful sunshine.  Everyone was out enjoying the day and the park’s green lawns and surrounding bush.  Glenn had been promising all trip to pull out a kite we’d bought for entertainment. This seemed like a great time for it.

Glorious Kings Park

Amazing how this Boab isn't sliding down the hill

We setup the kite and the girls were busting.  There wasn’t a heap of wind unfortunately, (a natural enemy to the kite), but we improvised by having a short line, and running around the park with it.  The girls were so excited and raced around looking at the flying butterfly behind them.  Well worth it.

Come back Dad! That's our kite!

 

It wasn’t all relaxing back at camp. Amy did have the usual 10 tonne of washing to get through. We squeezed in another huge grocery re-stock and Glenn had to track down an electrical short that had our break lights blowing regularly, not really what we want!  He eventually tracked it down to a set of wires rubbing against the back tank, shorting when they moved.  Given the difficult and inaccessible spot the wires were in, a bit of bush mechanics fixed the problem for now with a bit of foam stuffed up there, stopping them touching the tank.  Let’s see if that holds shall we!